ESC button (part 1)
Another retrofit where I probably have more joy in doing all the research then actually using it. But I also like to have more buttons in the center console.

The e-Golf has the same ABS pump as all the other models, even the more sportier onces. Some of these models have a dedicated button in the center console to toggle between different electronic stability control (ESC) and traction control (ASR) programs. The following options are generally availble:
- ESC & ASR enabled
- ESC Sport
- ESC Off
- ASR Off
ESC and ASC enhance stability. But sometimes you want to disable it. It can be disabled via the infotainment menu, or via a dedicated button. This button is not standard on most variants of the Golf. But it can be retrofitted.
The part number I need is 5G1 927 137 AA
, because I also have the driving
mode switch.

Coding the ABS module
The available programs are controlled by the ABS module (J104, or block 03). I first decided if the e-Golf would accept the additional programs to make it worth the effort. I did the same adaption on my Volkswagen Polo MY2016, so I knew what to expect.
- Go to module 03-ABS Brakes.
- Go to coding (there are no labels).
- Change byte 29 to end with a
9
. In my case, I changedE2
toE9
.
This will enable the ESC Sport option. Other options are available.
The final coding is 01FA40A12C20216E4778060841C92980023484E26082943338915078C2E903
.
In the menu, I now have more options to choose from. They seem to work just fine.

Checking the wiring
The ABS module has a 46-pin connector on the e-Golf. Pin 39 of this connector is connected to the button in the center console. I checked the wiring diagrams of my e-Golf, and compared this to a Golf GTI. The e-Golf wiring diagrams show that this pin is not populated, but the Golf GTI does.


On some Golf variants, this pin is pre-wired to the so-called TIUL coupling point, next to the footrest, even if the button is not installed. I removed this connector, and verified that pin 5 was not populated, which was to be expected. This means that I will have to run a wire through the firewall of the car, then from the coupling point to the center console.

I will probably test this first, by connecting a wire to the 46-pin connector on the ABS pump first, then ‘toggle’ it by momentarily connecting it to 12 V. According to the schematic, the switch will connect that pin to a 12 V source once pressed. This way, I know if it is worth the effort to run the wire through the firewall.
